Climbing uses all the muscles of the body, but especially those
of the shoulder. It particularly exposes beginners and experienced
climbers to shoulder injuries such as tendinopathies (tendonitis),
acromioclavicular sprains, subluxations. Depending on the degree of
severity, these can be disabling and take time to recover.
When you start climbing, always stay progressive in your
practice and follow certain instructions for physical preparation and muscle
warm-up in order to prevent discomfort or pain.
1. Climbing: what are the causes of shoulder pain?
The
shoulder is a complex made up of several joints and muscles that unite the
upper limb to the trunk via the scapula (also called “Scapula”). Much of
its mobility and stability is due to the rotator cuff, a set of muscles that
fit over the scapula and humerus. This muscle group is particularly prone
to injury. It includes 4 muscles: the supraspinatus, the infraspinatus, the
teres minor and the subscapularis. All these muscles meet at the level of
the humeral head with one and the same very strong tendon. It is at this
level that stress and overwork can cause injuries.
The
first cause of pain is often a sedentary lifestyle and lack of exercise. In
fact, in a large part of patients, the shoulder is not used regularly in
everyday life. Their deep muscles tend to decondition.
In
general, remember that the body adapts to the daily constraints to which it is
exposed. So if you work in front of a PC all week and don't do a minimum
of activity, your cuff is probably not very developed.
However,
climbing is an intense sport which requires strength, flexibility, stability
and speed. If your shoulder is not prepared, it can quickly find itself
overworked and exposed to injury and pain. On the contrary, if you are
assiduous and that you dose your sessions correctly, you will strengthen
yourself and be more and more solid!
This
is the reason why physiotherapists always recommend to stay progressive in your
practice, to think about warming up and doing a few strengthening sessions
beforehand. Why not with a coach or a physiotherapist ...
2. Climbing: what are the most frequent shoulder injuries?
- Rotator
cuff tendinopathy (or shoulder tendonitis)
Rotator
cuff tendonitis or tendinopathy is inflammation of the
tendon. Inflammation most often occurs as a result of over-straining the
shoulder and a lack of recovery time between sports sessions. This injury
is frequent and requires you to temporarily adapt your practice to allow the
tendon to heal. Stopping the sport can be requested but you still have to
keep moving.
- Sub acromial bursitis
Bursitis
is the inflammation of the bursa (a kind of small shock-absorbing cushion)
located under the end of the scapula (the acromion). This structure
ignites when it is “pinched” between the head of the humerus (arm bone) and the
acromion. This is particularly unpleasant because the bursa swells, fills
with synovial fluid, and therefore becomes tender during lifting movements of
the arm.
Certain
posture, push or pull positions are more restrictive for the climber's
shoulder. It is often a good idea to study the route beforehand, to modify
your hand positions and to use the leg supports as much as possible to avoid this
type of injury.
- Dislocation
or subluxation
We
speak of dislocation when the humeral head comes completely out of the glenoid
where it is held in place. It is a disabling lesion which requires medical
follow-up and physiotherapy sessions to avoid retaining sequelae (stiffness,
repetitive dislocation, etc.). This is because dislocation can damage many
ligaments in the shoulder.
In
the case of subluxation, the head of the humerus does not come out of its
glenoid completely. It therefore causes fewer lesions. However,
rehabilitation sessions can be useful to avoid chronic instability problems,
strengthen the deep muscles of the shoulder and work on proprioception.
3. The right actions to avoid shoulder pain
- Warm up
well
It
is imperative that you prepare your muscles for the exercise. The warm-up
will increase the heart rate, improve blood circulation in the muscles and
tendons to optimize their performance and especially to prepare well for the
constraints that will arise.
It
is recommended to warm up by performing full mobilizations of the joints of the
shoulder, elbow, wrists, fingers and back.
To
prepare your muscles, do a few series of light to moderate contractions
(push-ups, traction, etc.). Finally, to prepare your tendons, make rapid
movements of large amplitudes by actively decelerating the end of the
movement.
- Train
gradually
Rushing
is one of the most common mistakes in climbing, which can have serious
repercussions on the muscles. It is necessary to let your body adapt to
the effort to avoid serious injury.
When
you start, practice on less technical slopes and increase the level of
difficulty as you go. It is also advisable to take breaks when pain is
felt while climbing. Rest is essential afterwards.
- Adopt
the right postures
Shoulder
pain can also occur from keeping the arms bent too long while
climbing. This pose puts a heavy strain on the shoulders, paralyzes the
biceps, and adds more load to the fingers, wrists and elbows. To prevent
the onset of pain during the ascent, you should keep your arms straight, use
your back and core muscles more, and lengthen your spine.
If
you are rock climbing and your shoulder hurts, it is always advisable to
consult a specialist doctor and then a physiotherapist. Depending on the
diagnosis, this professional will be able to put in place a treatment plan to
help your recovery.